Autumn/Winter 2008 – 2009 Women’s Collection

Simple Sophisticated

Lines. Workmanship. Materials. Cuts and details. Simplicity and the construction of forms. These are the keywords of the Alessandro Dell’Acqua collection for Autumn- Winter 2008-2009, while for this season the main goal has been the search for a new highly sophisticated and designed silhouette. Through working on forms and volumes, outfits have been created which contradict their apparent simplicity with highly complicated constructions. Pagoda dresses, coats, suits and evening dresses have simple straightforward forms, graphic lines and precious colours which are reminiscent of the creations of the American couturier, Charles James.

The result is a look obtained from elaborate cuts and a sophisticated mix of different materials –sometimes as many as three or four for the same outfit. Short bord à bord felt jackets, silk garments with three-dimensional embroidered jewel features (which are also used for bags and evening pochettes), astrakan robe manteau, felt and Mikado silk as well as Persian, mink or murmansky fur coats. The knitwear is expertly matted and mixed with astrakan, cloth and cashmere. The chiffon is worked and knitted until it almost becomes an embroidery. Certain dresses with simple lines at the front reveal unusual features at the back. The peculiarity of the workmanship more often than not needs to be assessed by looking at both the front and rear of the garment - such as with the essential robe bustier in camel cashmere felt moved on the back by a large orange Mikado basque with folds. The same also applies for dresses, with tails made from fabric and buttons on the back, which overlap one another and are worn back to front. And again, with the sheath dresses and little black dresses that feature black crêpe fronts and coloured silk at the back.

There is a double palette of colours. On a range of precious and structured fabrics dominated by Mikado silk, cashmere cloth and fur coats there are sophisticated combinations of camel and orange, black and pomegranate red, total black combines with emerald green or an unexpected touch of cobalt blue which shows up again on the high and narrow PVC stiletto heels and the court shoes, which have a graphic-chic allure.