Spring/Summer 2008 Women’s Collection

         SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY

As in the flash of an Araki Nobuyoshi polaroid, for spring-summer 2008 Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s women come down the runway with all the force and fragile delicacy of the models captured by the Japanese photographer. First ‘revealing’ snapshots: stretch lingerie sets in sheer organza or tulle, with plastic piping and band edging; on high platform thongs à la okobo (wedge shoe typical of maikos) with multicolor-leather and fine tubular straps. And then short kimonos, with obi-style cinches in corset fabric. While the same material serves as detailing in structuring skirts, the designer’s signature non-run knit – this season complete with embroidery – identifies evanescent dresses quite Chinese of imprint.

East meets West primarily in the choice of fabrics: plastified organza (with, by contrast, chantilly lace trim), mikado silk with doubling in Jap-motif tulle, vulcanized chiffon for a techno/macramé effect. Giving definition to traditional Japanese styles and shapes. As in the short pagoda jackets, the chiffon pajamas in Zen garden prints, the micro origami capes. Or, for the latest in a minidress, the fuchsia ratzmir mac with tech-obi geisha mode.

Very oriental oriented. The influence is there in the rubber and plastic lotus-flower embroideries, also in the prints reinterpreted and shaded on the computer. The palette features fluo brights and soft pastels: green, yellow, white, rosy pink, the inevitable fleshtone – here in a Tokyo nude nuance – plus vibrant touches of sky blue and shocking pink.